I'm going to be discussing with you a common problem with wallcovering installations. That problem is stains. One thing most people don't realize is that covering a stain involves two areas of concern. They are: SHOW THROUGH and BLEED THROUGH.
"Show through" is when the color is very bright, or in great contrast to another color, and it will show through paint or wallcovering. Sometimes it does this as soon as it is applied; other times not until it dries.
"Bleed through" we see when products containing soluble coloring, tinting or dye will dilute from the wetness of the fresh paint or wallcovering adhesives, and start to bleed or run. This causes them to cover at first but sneak back on us later. Manufacturers of stain covers realize we may have both of these problems, so good stain covering products are made to cover both at once.
Remember our first rule of prep
Try to hold this one thought: IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO DO THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF PREP WORK! You either do too much or not enough. The sad part is you only find out which after the job is finished. I have always found that it was safer (not to mention less costly) to do too much.
I always put on at least two coats of stain cover and three coats of stain cover if harsh contrast or oily stains, such as lipstick, are present. Don't rely on your wallcovering to act as a cover up. If you can see your stain at all, put another coat of stain cover on before you hang!
Don't take any chances and you won't be called back to rehang...
Stains on the walls before you hang
You will find several different kinds of stains on the walls. As I told you, if you take care of these ahead of time they won't be around to haunt you later.
Color Stains
Stark color contrast such as a red spot on paint in the middle of a white wall, is about the most simple to correct. Simply paint over it with a good stain cover -- two coats if necessary-- and it is done. Pigmented shellac is an excellent stain cover.
Bleeding Stains
These are stains such as lipstick, ink, grease, model airplane paint, Georgia red clay and other assorted residue from puddle jumpers of the younger generation. Wash thoroughly with TSP or other strong cleaner.
Allow area to dry and use pigmented shellac. Two or three coats as needed.
At times you have stains that appear after the wallpaper is hung, I call these:
Ghost Stains
I have an example of this type of stain that was one of most perplexing I have ever faced. We had a new construction job with nicely finished drywall, and wallcovering undercoat as prep all ready to hang.
We started hanging a pale yellow medium weight woven backed vinyl. After thirty minutes we noticed small red stains showing through the vinyl. It wasn't on the wall before hanging, and it wasn't on the paper before hanging
With much arm twisting, digging, cussin' and fussin' we finally found the problem: Would you believe canceled check ink? It seems that the drywall manufacturers used recycled paper made from old checks for the drywall finish paper and since canceled check ink is very indelible, it didn't come out in the recycling process. We removed the few cuts that we had hung, washed the wall and coated all the walls with pigmented shellac to solve the problem.
When you have a stain that just doesn't make any sense, you need to investigate until the real reason for the stain comes out. Stains don't exist without a reason.
Stains on Finished Wallcovering
If a customer has a stain on the surface of her wallcovering after you have hung it, first ask to see the leftover dry roll ends. Obviously if they have the same stain on them, it is not your fault. There are other common stains on wallpaper jobs.
Mold and Mildew
Bathroom showers will cause soap film to collect on the paint or wallpaper. Soap film contains protein from human skin. This protein will support mold and mildew growth. Recommend a periodic wash down with a mild soap and water and a thorough rinse.
If they don't have a vent fan in the bathroom they can get mold and mildew. I always point this possibility out to people with bathrooms that don't have vent fans.
Adhesive Stains
Non-staining adhesives can make this problem worse. The uneducated installer thinks that because an adhesive is labeled"non-staining" it will NEVER show if left on the face of the wallcovering. However all paste that is left on the face of the wallcovering will at times be sticky from humidity in the air. Over a period of time, house dust collects in the sticky mess and turns the paste brown or a dirty gray. The paste is true to it's advertising. It is in truth "non-staining". It isn't the paste that is brown it is the dust and dirt that has attached itself to it.
This is a simple problem to avoid. Never leave any adhesive on the face of the wallcovering or on the ceiling or baseboards. It is much simpler never to make a mess than to try and clean one up.
If you inherited it from another hanger, try washing with mild soap. Do not guarantee the results. The dirt/paste mixture might have damaged the ink on the wallcovering. This like so many of the problems we face with installations is a problem is far easier to prevent than to correct.
Oxidation of Foils and Mylars
Many of foils and mylars are colored with deep colors and are candidates for oxidation. Oxidation, simply stated is what happened to your mom's silver when you put your fingers on it. Tarnish, rust, and the chalky appearance of the paint on an old automobile are all forms of oxidation.
This can be caused by hanging wallcovering over patching compounds without a primer or sealer in between. Most patching compounds contain lime; the faster they dry, the more lime they contain. The damage is done when the lime in the patching compound mixes with the water in the paste to form a caustic compound that attacks the inks or metal in the wallcovering.
I personally think the best sealer for the prevention of oxidation is pigmented shellac. It is convenient because it dries so fast.
Drywall joint compound is not as high in lime, as fast drying patching and spackle compounds. I have been using good quality acrylic wallcovering undercoat since 1975, and have never experienced any oxidation staining.
Chalk-Box Stains
Many installers use snap a plumb bob and a chalk line as a guide for hanging their first sheet of wallcovering. Then they are surprised when they find that that first seam shows a dark edge. Chalk boxes are for masons...not wallcovering installers. Use a level and a thin (almost invisible) pencil line and you will avoid this problem.
Educating your Customer about Stains
If the customer calls you because they have done something to the walls that has caused a stain usually they will know what the stain on the wallcovering is, i.e.: grape soda, lipstick, etc. Tell them to apply the same stain to a roll end (not her wall) and then try different cleaning solutions to lift the stain. When she finds something that works on the scrap then use that solution on her finished wall!
We teach our students how to do patches and repairs on the wallcovering. Many times you will be able to save the customer the expense of a new wallpaper job...gaining not only the trust of the customer but their repeat business as well. The ability to do patches and repairs in wallcovering is a big business booster.
Blood on wallcovering...
Ups! You cut yourself! It probably wasn't the first time and it certainly won't be the last time! The big problem is not your poor cut finger but the blood you just got on the customer's wallcovering.
If it is a vinyl it will probably just wipe off -- no harm done.
What if it is a fabric? There is a sure cure for removing blood from cloth. But the person who put the blood on the fabric must be the one to get it off.
Your own saliva will take out your own blood. Not anyone elses -- just yours.
I had a nurse come to the school and she was the one that taught me this trick. I wish I had known it when I was hanging paper! So, if you get a drop of blood on the customer's fabric or suede, just spit on it. Bingo! Blood is gone!
Whatever you do, don't let the customer see you doing this trick. It could make for very poor customer relations.
Tell this trick to every man you meet. We have all cut ourselves shaving, this could save lots a people the price of a new shirt!
Milk
Another stain remover that I have found that really works is using milk to remove ballpoint pen from fabrics. Try this the next time you get some on your clothes. It will amaze you.
You will find your own
You will find plenty more "household remedies" to pass on to your customers. Just be sure to remember to try these on roll ends before you work with removing the stains on the wall. If you don't you find yourself with a stain that was once the size of a pin head getting as big as an elephant. Caution is the a good word to use here. You can easily make a bad spot --- worse!
Back to lesson page
The American
School of Paperhanging Arts (ASPA)
Click on our building to discover how our training saves you time!
PaperTheWeb.Com
a division of ASPA specializes in websites for the wallcovering industry
You can purchase
professional tools directly from our online school store at
PasteMachines.COM
Did you ask for our ASPA School Catalog yet? It's FREE!
We sponsor the American Paperhanging Network
Over 100,000 jobs each year are installed by ASPA trained professionals
A good education is one of the few things in life you spend everyday and still keep
Our only job is teaching and supporting wallcovering professionals!
The shortest road to success is always a great education
ASPA trained installers are fully supported for the lifetime of their business
Want to come and visit our school? We would love to have you...
Proud members of The National
Guild of Professional Paperhangers
Before you copy anything from our web site please ask for written
permission from
The American School of Paperhanging Arts,
450 Little Street, Commerce, Georgia 30529
Call....1-800-633-2796 or email INFO@paperhanging.com